FDM 3d Printing Troubleshooting Problems: The Printer Does Not Print

3d Printing Problems are too much-frustrated Issue. It’s great that your 3D printer can print well. But we’ve all had such awful moments when a seemingly simple model simply refuses to print.

We had quite a few printing problems. So, straight from our experience of troubleshooting problems with 3D printing Problems, we’ve put together what we hope is the most comprehensive guide to diagnosing and fixing common 3D printing problems. 

Problems related to desktop adhesion, faulty supports, and the like are not unique to FDM. SLA 3D printing is also subject to similar problems. We will expand on this guide to show the availability of desktop FDM printing by offering troubleshooting tips.

No matter how hard you try, the filament will not squeeze out of the hotel. The possible causes of this type of 3D printing problem are numerous.

Out of plastic

What is the problem?

The printer does not print the model that was configured correctly in the slicer, but with all attempts to print a little filament comes out of the nozzle, and the plastic feed stops. Printing may start normally, but at some point, the plastic feed stops, but the printer continues to move the nozzle.

What is causing this problem?

This is an obvious problem that cannot be missed on many printers like the PRUSA i3, where the filament spool is visible. But on other printers such as the Bizon 2 series, Ultimaker, etc., the problem is not always obvious. The filament spool is either inside the printer or hidden behind it.

This problem is due to the lack of filament

Of course, some printers are equipped with sensors that feed data to software and signal plastic feeding problems. However, we all like to redo and use our own custom firmware or third-party software, and they don’t always have this functionality. In addition, there are printers that simply do not have such sensors and cannot report a problem.

In all cases, especially with Bowden-style extrusion systems, you will need to remove some of the leftover filament and then feed in a new one.


Look at the spool of plastic and check if there is still any filament left. If not, install a new coil. It’s simple.

The nozzle is too close to the printer table

What is the problem?

It looks strange, but despite the presence of filament and movement of the nozzle, no plastic remains on the table.

What is causing this problem?

Simply put, your nozzle is too close to the printer’s desktop. If you set the distance from the nozzle to the table too small, the table prevents the thread from being squeezed out. In the best case, the plastic will not only be on the first layer but there will be a high probability that the plastic will not stick on the next one. At worst, the thread will accumulate in the hot end, overheat and form an impassable plug.


Increasing the nozzle height slightly can often help. Most 3D printing Problems will allow you to set the Z offset in their system settings. To lift the nozzle off the print surface, you need to increase the offset to a positive value. This also works in the opposite direction, with a negative offset, helping to eliminate the problem of poor adhesion of plastic to the surface.

But be careful, the offset is too much and the plastic won’t stick to the table.

Alternatively, if your printer allows this, you can achieve the same effect by lowering the printer’s desktop itself. However, this is a more problematic solution as it requires recalibration and alignment. We have tried our Best to Cover all the 3d Printing Problems in this Article.

Checklist for solving this problem

  • Z axis offset setting
  • Lowering the table

Clogged Nozzle

What is the problem?

You start a print job, but no matter how hard you try, nothing comes out of the nozzle. Removing the filament and reinstalling it does not help.

What is causing this problem?

A small piece of filament remains in the nozzle after replacing the spools. When the new thread is threaded, the piece of old thread remaining in the nozzle prevents the new thread from being pushed through.

A little maintenance on the printer can greatly reduce the likelihood of these problems occurring. In fact, you may find that even before the blockage appears, there is a charred piece of old filament inside your nozzle. It can stay there for weeks or even months without making itself felt, but there will be little signs of the quality of your seal.

These signs are often overlooked; for example, small nicks on the exterior walls, small dark spots, or slight variations in print quality between models. These shortcomings are often simply attributed to low expectations of the quality of 3D printing Problems, but in reality, the problem can be much more serious. A cleaning method known as “Atomic Fume” or “Cold Fume” (which we will discuss in detail below) can help with this.

This problem can appear, for example, if you frequently switch from PLA to ABS. A small amount of PLA remains in the nozzle and heats up above its normal melting point. This could mean that the PLA will char and burn.

Likewise, when switching from ABS to Nylon, you will see something similar again.


Cleaning with a Needle

If you’re lucky, clearing up a blockage can be a quick and easy process. Start by removing the thread. Then use the control panel of your printer (if available) to select the nozzle heat setting and increase the melting point of the stuck filament. Alternatively, connect the printer to a computer that has compatible control software (such as Lulzbot and their Cura offshoot) and heat the nozzle. For example, for PLA, set the temperature to 220 C. When the nozzle reaches the desired temperature, use a small pin, special drill, needle, or toothpick to clean the hole (be careful not to burn your fingers). If your nozzle is 0.4mm then you need a smaller pin; The airbrush nozzle cleaning kit works well.

If you find that the nozzle is blocked, you can push the filament through with another piece of filament. Start by removing the filament as before and then remove the feed tube from the print head. Heat the hot end to 220 ° C for PLA, and then, with another piece of filament, push it from the top to try to push out the remaining plastic in the nozzle. Additional pressure you can manually apply can clear the nozzle.

Replace the Nozzle

In extreme cases, when the nozzle remains blocked, you will need to do a small operation and remove this nozzle. Start by removing the filament from the hot end, then refer to your printer’s manual for details on how to remove the nozzle.

Checklist for solving this problem

  • Heat the nozzle and clean with a needle
  • Remove the feed tube and try to push the plastic with another piece of plastic
  • Dismantle the hot end and see if you can clear the blockage
  • Try Atomic Fume Extraction (Cold Draw)

The print head extends beyond the printable area of ​​the printer

What is the problem?

It’s hard not to notice. A loud noise will alert you to the presence of a problem.

When the print head does not hit the table, and also reaches the X or Y position limit, when the print head tries to go beyond its extreme point, the noise will be generated through slipping belts, gears, or the head trying to break the side of the printer and go beyond it.

It is unlikely that your printer will be able to print in this condition. While this is easy to fix, it is not a problem that you can skip or fix later.

What is causing this problem?

Incorrect configuration, incorrect printer selection, or broken limit switches are all common problems.

If the problem manifests itself with a new printer, then there is most likely something wrong with the configuration. Run the installation process again and make sure you have the correct firmware version for your printer.

Randomly selecting the wrong printer from the dropdown list in your slicer can be a common cause of this 3D printing problem. For example, trying to print to the Ultimaker Go using the settings for Ultimaker 2.

When setting up the printer, make sure you have specified the correct print quantity in the printer firmware. If the printer thinks its printable area is larger than it actually is, it will try to use it even if it is not.

If your printer is okay and the problem occurs suddenly, start by checking your slicer settings. Something might be reset or changed by an update! For a slicer, it is common to either return to the default settings or automatically select the latest printer version, even if it is not the version you are currently using.

And if all else looks right, perhaps one of your limit switches in the printer has stopped working.



Before doing anything, make sure the correct printer is selected in your slicer. All printers are different from each other, so even if the desktop of the two printers is the same, it is unlikely that the other sizes and settings will exactly match.


If you just purchased your printer and this problem occurs, make sure you have the latest firmware. After the update, run the installation process and check that all settings are correct, especially regarding the size of the printable area.


It takes a little more effort to diagnose. Watch the movement of the print head. If it tries to go past the extreme point of one of its axes, make sure the limit switch is not disconnected. If everything looks fine (and none of the above steps fixed the problem), then the next step is to replace the limit switches of the problem axis with new ones.

  • Checklist for solving this problem
  • Check the printer settings in the slicer
  • Update printer firmware
  • Check limit switches

Breakage of Plastic

What is the problem?

The spool of plastic looks full and there is plastic in the feed tube, but nothing comes out of the nozzle. This problem relates more to Bowden-fed printers than to direct printers since the filament is hidden in the tube, which makes it difficult to immediately determine what is wrong.

What is causing this problem?

Mostly old or cheap plastic is the cause of filament breakage. Most plastics like PLA and ABS, though, last long. But if they are in the wrong conditions, such as in direct sunlight, they can become brittle.

Another problem is the yarn diameter, which can vary from manufacturer to batch. Occasionally, if the extruder tensioner is too tight, the pressure may rupture in a thin spot.



The first thing to do is to remove the plastic from the printer in the usual way. For Ultimaker, select Maintenance and Material Replacement. Since filament tends to break inside the feed tube, you need to remove the tube from both the extruder and the hot end hose. Then heat the nozzle and pull out the remaining plastic in the hot end.


If the problem persists after reloading the filament, use a different plastic (different type or manufacturer) to check for the problem in the spool itself.

Loosen the extruder pressure

If the new filament breaks, make sure the extruder pressure roller is not too tight by loosening it until the feed gear slips.


If the problem persists, check that the hot end heats up and reaches the correct temperature. Also, make sure the thread flow rate is 100% or less.

  • Checklist for solving this problem
  • Make sure the thread is not jammed
  • Check the thread diameter
  • Adjust the pressure in the extruder
  • Make sure the hot end is clean and at the correct temperature.
  • Set the flow rate to 100%

Related to Printers:

Bully on plastic

What is the problem?

Filament seizure or slippage can occur at any time during printing and with any type of plastic. As a result, the filament is not pushed out of the hot end, which leads to an abrupt end of printing.

What is causing this problem?

Clogging, loose extruder pressure, and incorrect hot end temperature are just some of the common causes, but they are usually easy to fix. A result of the problem is that the feed gear in the extruder cannot pull or push filament through the printer. The motor spins a pinion with small teeth that normally grab and push the filament through the system. Instead, they wear it out when the grip is lost and the gear slips over the filament.



If the plastic has just started to slip, you can tell by the sound from the extruder and the appearance of plastic chips. Press lightly on the filament to pass it through the extruder. This usually solves the problem.


Start by loosening the pressure roller, inserting the thread, and tightening the roller until it stops slipping. Filaments vary in diameter, the clamp will absorb some difference in diameter, but some plastics will require fine adjustment.


In most cases, you will need to remove and replace the plastic and then feed it back through the system. Once the plastic has been removed, trim it below the area that is slipping and feed it back into the system. If the plastic breaks try again, and if it breaks again and you find the filament feels brittle, throw it away and use another one.


If you have just inserted a new filament and the problem continues, check that the nozzle temperature is correct.

  • Checklist for solving this problem
  • Push the bar by hand
  • Adjust the pressure in the extruder
  • Remove the filament
  • Check nozzle temperature

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